Alright, let’s talk about Karangasem — not the place people usually think of first when they’re planning a trip to Bali, but man, they’re missing out big time. This ain’t Ubud or Canggu, with all the yoga pants and beach clubs. Karangasem is where you go when you’re looking for something real, raw, and still pretty quiet. I’ve been driving tourists around Bali for over 12 years, and every time I take someone east to Karangasem, they end up saying the same thing: “Why didn’t we come here sooner?”
Karangasem is the biggest regency in Bali by area, stretching from Mount Agung all the way down to some of the bluest coastlines I’ve ever seen. You’ve got sleepy fishing villages, dramatic temples on cliffs, black sand beaches, rice terraces, and a ton of culture that hasn’t been messed with by over-tourism yet.
So yeah, if you’re planning a trip to Bali and want to see a different side of the island, Karangasem should be on your list. Not sure where to start? Don’t worry — I’ve got you covered like a sarong on temple day.
Where Exactly Is Karangasem, and Why Should You Go There?
Karangasem is on the eastern side of Bali. It’s about 2.5 to 3 hours from the airport, depending on traffic and whether you stop for snacks or photos — and trust me, you’ll want to stop. The main areas people usually visit are Amed, Candidasa, Tirta Gangga, and Sidemen. It’s a huge regency, so there’s a lot of ground to cover.
Why go there? Well, lemme tell ya — if you’re tired of hearing motorcycles revving past your villa in Seminyak or paying triple price for a Bintang in Uluwatu, Karangasem is a breath of fresh air. It’s still got that old Bali vibe, where people smile at you without expecting a tip, and warungs sell real home-cooked food for like IDR 20,000.
Also, for the Instagrammers — the views here are no joke. Rice fields with Agung in the background, traditional water palaces, quiet beaches with crazy sunrises… you’ll fill your SD card before lunch.
Karangasem Location:
What to Do in Karangasem – My Honest, No-Fluff Recommendations
Alright, here’s the fun part. There’s a lot to see, but I’m gonna break it down based on the places I always take my guests (and yeah, I sneak in a few food stops in between). I’ve been to these spots more times than I can count, but they still don’t get old.
Amed – Snorkeling, Diving, and Chill Vibes
Amed is where the road hugs the coastline so close you feel like you’re driving on the ocean. It’s a fishing village turned into a low-key dive haven. There’s no nightlife here really, but if you’re into snorkeling or diving, this is the spot. You can literally walk off the beach and be surrounded by coral and fish in 2 minutes.
I always tell people to check out the Japanese shipwreck in Banyuning — it’s super close to shore, easy to access, and you don’t need a guide unless you just want one. And Jemeluk Bay? It’s like swimming in a big saltwater aquarium.
Bonus tip: Amed sunsets are sneaky good. You can sit at a beach bar with your feet in the sand, drink a cold arak mojito, and watch Mount Agung slowly turn purple.
Tirta Gangga – Bali’s Royal Water Palace
This one’s a must. Tirta Gangga is probably the most famous water palace in Bali, built by the late king of Karangasem. It’s full of koi ponds, stone carvings, and those Instagram stepping stones everyone loves. I always recommend going early in the morning before the buses show up, otherwise it gets way too crowded.
And yes, you can feed the fish. Just don’t wear heels — the stones get slippery. There’s a warung across the street that does really decent nasi campur if you’re hungry after.
Funny story — one time a tourist asked if the koi were sacred. I said, “Only on Wednesdays,” and they actually waited a day to come back.
Lempuyang Temple – The “Gates of Heaven” That Everyone’s Posting About
You’ve seen this one on Instagram. Big stone gates, Mount Agung in the background, someone holding a mirror to make that lake reflection effect (yep, it’s a trick). Lempuyang is cool, but it’s also kinda crowded these days.
If you want the photo, go early. Like really early. I mean 6 a.m., with a driver waiting outside kind of early. There’s usually a number system, and people wait for hours just to get their 30 seconds in front of the gates.
Now if you’re more into spiritual stuff than selfies, there’s actually 7 temples here, not just one. You can hike the whole way up — it’s about 1,700 steps. Good shoes, water, and a willingness to sweat are required.
I had one Aussie guest who did the whole hike in flip-flops and swore she’d never trust Google Maps again.
Sidemen – The Green Heart of East Bali
Ah, Sidemen. Say it like “see-da-men,” not “side-men.” This place feels like Ubud 30 years ago. It’s all rice fields, farm life, and small family-run homestays. If you want to do absolutely nothing and feel good about it, this is the place.
You can do a rice terrace walk here with a local guide (support the locals, please). They’ll show you how they plant rice, harvest cacao, and sometimes they’ll even climb a palm tree just to impress you. I swear, those guys have monkey DNA or something.
There’s also great weaving communities here — Tenun Ikat is the traditional fabric they make. It’s all done by hand, no machines, and you can actually see the ladies working on the looms.
One of my guests once bought five sarongs thinking she’d use them as curtains. Still waiting to see those pics…
Where to Stay in Karangasem – Local Driver’s Picks
Okay, this is where a lot of folks get stuck. Karangasem’s not like Kuta or Ubud, where hotels are on every corner. You’ve got to pick a spot depending on your vibe.
For Peace and Ocean Breezes – Stay in Amed
Lots of cute bungalows and small hotels here. Nothing too fancy, but you don’t need it. Look for places like Blue Earth Village (eco-style with a great view) or Villa Aquamarine (solid mid-range option).
Most spots have breakfast with a sea view, and the sound of the waves will knock you out at night — no need for white noise apps here.
For Rice Fields and Mountain Views – Stay in Sidemen
You’ve got options like Wapa di Ume Sidemen (bit fancy) or Darmada Eco Resort (more earthy, very chill). Both have infinity pools and epic Agung views.
Sidemen’s a bit cooler too — less humid, which is nice if you hate sweating through your shirt every five minutes.
For Culture and Easy Access – Stay Around Candidasa or Tirta Gangga
Candidasa is more developed and closer to the main road. It’s a good home base if you’re planning to drive around Karangasem a lot. Plus, there’s some great oceanfront warungs and places to grab proper Western food if you’re over nasi goreng.
Tirta Ayu Hotel near Tirta Gangga is kinda charming — you can literally walk into the palace gardens from your room. Talk about a backyard.
Local Eats in Karangasem – What (and Where) You Should Try
One thing I love about Karangasem? The food’s still proper local. No overpriced smoothie bowls or quinoa salads here — just good ol’ Balinese cooking.
Try lawar klungah, a spicy mix made from young coconut, minced pork or chicken, and a ton of herbs. It’s a little chewy, but so flavorful. Or jukut undis, which is like a mung bean soup that sounds boring but hits the spot after a long hike.
If you’re near Amed, Warung Osin does a mean grilled tuna with sambal matah. It’s basically my go-to after every snorkeling trip.
In Sidemen, try Warung Maha Neka — run by a local family and they’ve got this killer chicken betutu that takes hours to cook but is so worth the wait.
And look, if you’ve never had arak, now’s the time. Just… don’t go too hard. That stuff sneaks up on you like a gecko in the night.
How to Get Around Karangasem Without Losing Your Mind
Alright, real talk — don’t try to drive yourself unless you’ve got nerves of steel and really good travel insurance. Roads are narrow, Google Maps is hit or miss, and signage is often… well, it’s in Balinese. I always recommend hiring a local driver. Not just because I am one, but because it honestly makes your life easier.
You’ll get to the spots faster, learn more, and avoid getting stuck behind a truck full of pigs for 30 minutes (true story — it squealed the whole way).
Scooters are doable if you’re confident, but I wouldn’t recommend it for long hauls. The distances between villages are pretty big, and there’s not always a gas station nearby. Also, rain comes outta nowhere sometimes.
A lot of travelers book a driver for a full day (usually 10 hours) and hit up 2–4 spots. Prices range from IDR 600K to 800K depending on the route and car type.
Cultural Etiquette in Karangasem – Stuff You Won’t Find on a Travel Poster
Alright, before you start roaming around temple courtyards and taking selfies with every statue you see, there are a few things you gotta know. Karangasem locals are really proud of their culture — even more so than in some of the more tourist-heavy areas of Bali.
This ain’t Legian. You can’t just roll up shirtless, drop your shoes at the gate, and expect to be welcomed into a temple like it’s a bar.
Dress Respectfully at Temples (Even Small Ones)
Sarong and sash are a must. Doesn’t matter if it’s Lempuyang or just a tiny shrine in the middle of a rice field. Even locals wear them. I usually keep a couple sarongs in the car for guests who “forgot” — which happens way too often.
Cover your shoulders and knees, especially if you’re entering during a ceremony. And speaking of which…
Don’t Just Walk into a Ceremony (Ask First)
This happens a lot in Tirta Gangga and the villages around Ababi — tourists see a colorful temple event and wander right in with their cameras. Bad move.
Balinese ceremonies are sacred. They’re not tourist shows. Ask someone nearby if it’s okay to watch, and if they say yes, keep a respectful distance and don’t block the priests or dancers. Some ceremonies are closed to outsiders — and that’s okay. Just being invited to sit outside and watch is already a huge sign of trust.
Had a German guest once who accidentally walked into a cremation ceremony thinking it was a wedding. Yeah… awkward.
Mind Your Feet and Head
Basic Bali culture stuff: don’t point your feet at people or altars. Don’t sit higher than the priest. Don’t touch anyone on the head, even kids. It’s considered the holiest part of the body.
One time, I saw a tourist pat a kid on the head and the whole family gasped like they saw a ghost. Just smile, say “om swastiastu,” and bow your head a bit if you’re unsure.
Traveling with family or friends? A Bali car rental with driver gives you comfort, flexibility, and peace of mind.
Epic Treks and Nature Spots in Karangasem – For When You Wanna Stretch Your Legs
Karangasem isn’t just temples and beaches. If you’ve got a bit of energy (and good shoes), this part of Bali has some of the best hikes and nature walks around. And it’s not all touristy either — half the time you won’t see another soul on the trail.
Mount Agung – The Big One
Look, I’m not gonna sugarcoat this. Climbing Mount Agung is hard. Like, next-level leg day. But it’s also one of the most rewarding things you’ll ever do in Bali. The mountain is sacred to locals — it’s the seat of the gods in Balinese Hinduism — and many still do pilgrimages to the top.
There are two routes: Besakih Temple (longer, tougher) and Pura Pasar Agung (shorter but steeper). Most people start around midnight to reach the summit by sunrise. It takes 5–8 hours depending on the trail, and yeah, you’ll need a guide. Not optional.
Just a heads up — the last eruption was in 2017, so check the volcano activity before you go. Safety first, ego later.
I climbed it once back in 2016 with a group of Aussie surfers. They were dying halfway up, but by the time we saw the sun come up over Lombok, they were hugging each other and yelling like they won the World Cup.
Tenganan Pegringsingan – The Original Bali Aga Village
This is more of a cultural walk, but still counts. Tenganan is one of the few Bali Aga (original Balinese) villages left. It’s super traditional — narrow cobbled streets, old houses, and villagers who still follow ancient customs.
They’re known for the rare double ikat weaving technique. Takes years to learn and even longer to master. If you’re lucky, someone will show you how it’s done — just don’t take photos without asking first.
I’ve had guests who came for 30 minutes and stayed three hours just chatting with the elders and watching the kids play with handmade toys. It’s that kind of place.
Hidden Waterfalls in Sibetan and Selat
Forget Tegenungan or Gitgit — those are always packed. In Karangasem, you’ve got waterfalls that still feel untouched.
Near Sibetan (famous for salak a.k.a. snake fruit), there’s Yeh Labuh Waterfall, tucked in a little ravine. It’s not huge, but it’s peaceful, clean, and usually empty.
Another cool one is Jagasatru Waterfall near Duda village. Bit of a hike down, but nothing too crazy. You’ll probably meet some local kids splashing around and might even get offered a snack by someone passing through.
Karangasem with Kids – Can You Bring the Little Ones?
Short answer: Yes. But you gotta plan right.
Karangasem is a slow-paced area, which is perfect if you’re traveling with kids who don’t do well with overstimulation. No honking traffic, no thumping EDM, just nature, animals, and space to breathe.
Places like Taman Ujung Water Palace are great for kids — wide open areas, ponds full of fish, and lots of places to run around. Sidemen is also a good choice — they can see how rice is planted, chase ducks, or join in a local kite-flying session.
Just don’t expect a ton of playgrounds or indoor play areas. This ain’t Sanur.
Bring snacks, sunscreen, and mosquito repellent. And maybe a couple cartoons downloaded on your phone for the car rides — they can get a bit long.
Before diving into beaches like Amed beach, it helps to understand exactly where is Bali located and what makes it so special compared to other tropical spots.
How to Add Karangasem to Your Bali Itinerary (Without Backtracking or Burning Out)
Alright, here’s where a lot of people mess up. They either try to do too much in one day, or they zigzag all over the island and waste hours in traffic.
So here’s a local’s idea of a smooth, no-headache route:
- Day 1: Leave Ubud or Canggu early, head to Sidemen. Stay the night. Do rice field walks and chill.
- Day 2: From Sidemen, head to Tirta Gangga and Lempuyang. Base yourself in Amed or Candidasa after that.
- Day 3: Snorkeling, chill beach time in Amed. Optional: sunset dinner overlooking Jemeluk Bay.
- Day 4: Water palace in the morning (Taman Ujung), then back down south or onward to Lovina or north Bali.
No stress, no rush. You see the best stuff, and you get time to enjoy it instead of just ticking boxes.
Check also: Singaraja Bali
